Boundary Line

The climbing vs. running analysis spawned from thinking about my climbing technique, strengths, weaknesses, goals and my interest in trying new types of climbing.  

Spending a good deal of my time at the climbing gym after work (at home), I generally flock to the boulder walls as many do.  It's a great way to build power and expand your quiver of climbing maneuvers while sharing the excitement of working a project with other friends and climbers.  It's also more convenient than enlisting a climbing partner to share belays with on the lead wall.

I really enjoy bouldering and the sensation you get after unlocking the moves to a tricky problem and nabbing the send.  After spending month after month in the gym and occasionally outside, my bouldering strength went up.  I pushed myself to climb outside of my comfort zone and started sending problems that were a grade or two above what I perceived to be my climbing ability.  It wasn't long before I started to wonder what I was capable of on roped climbs.  What could I do if I pushed myself outside of my comfort zone in lead climbing the way I had in bouldering?  That's when I started looking at my strengths and weaknesses as a climber and compared them to that of my running abilities.

While lead climbing together, a mentor of mine told me that I climb with intent in that every hand and foot placement is chosen carefully and mindfully to prepare for the next move, a skill that is generally present among efficient climbers.  Efficient climbers.  Kinda sounds like a distance runner doesn't it?  I started making comparisons and quickly found that my strengths as a runner (stride efficiency, moderate power, moderate endurance, race strategy) dictated my strengths as a climber.  Racing mostly at 800 meters - 5k, I fall right into the 'mid distance' or 'sport climbing' range.

I started redirecting my efforts to top rope and sport climbing at the gym whenever I could snag a partner.  Before long I was toping on 5.12's and leading 5.11's.  The grades themselves were nothing to brag about, but for me it was huge progress.  When I stopped thinking of climbs as impossible or 'above my level' I started climbing harder. I learned to do away with the fear of failure and started pushing that boundary line out farther and farther.  Now that I know more about my strengths and weaknesses as a climber (and a runner) I know where to focus my efforts to push the boundary line out even more.

"Fear nothing.  Defy your boundaries."

Climbing vs Running

Coming from a running background, I think of different climbing styles in terms of race distances.  Bouldering is most like sprinting because both practices require raw strength and power with dedication to form.  I look at roped climbs as mid-long distance events due to the focus on endurance and efficiency.  During some eh, spare time, I gave the analogy more thought.  This is what I came up with.

100, 200 meters = Bouldering
400 meters= High Ball Bouldering
800 - 1600 meters = Sport Climbing / Top Rope
3200 - 10k = Marathon Sport Climbing (Sharma style)
10k - Marathon = Trad/Big Wall Climbing
Triathlon/Ironman  = Mountaineering/Alpinism

I didn't really put much thought to top rope but decided to throw it in with sport climbing under the 800 - 1600 meter range because most top rope climbs are the same length as single pitch sport climbs.  Marathon sport climbing gets its own category because people like Sharma have noticeably pushed the limits of single pitch sport climbing.  A lot of the routes he's established, like the ones in Catalunya, Spain or Yangshuo, China, required a special rope made by Petzl.  The next tier is Trad and Big Wall climbing.  I chose the race equivalents above because most Trad climbs dip into multipitch territory.  Trad climbing is often the gateway drug into Big Wall climbing just like 5k's and 10k's eventually lead to half marathons and full marathons.  Often times marathons lead into the ultimate challenge of Triathlons, Ironman's and Adventure Racing just as Trad and Big Wall climbing may one day lead to full-on mountaineering and alpine climbing.

I didn't add ice climbing to this list because I didn't want to unfairly place it somewhere.  I would probably put it alongside both the Trad and Mountaineering/Alpinism categories because the skillset is different than other forms of climbing, just as marathoning and ultra-marathoning are far different than your local 5k.  In marathons and beyond, you have to worry about replenishing nutrients midrace, unlike a 5k or 10k.

The comparison was just for fun, but if you have any comments feel free to leave them below.

Funkin' Foot

These last few days of having a hole in my foot have posed a bit of a problem.  I generally walk or bike to work, or anywhere else I need to go for that matter.  On Monday I was able to walk to work (my bike was still in the parking lot from not riding it home on Friday) since the hole had already begun to close over the weekend and was starting to feel better.  Thanks to the new hole the doc made that afternoon and the plastic apparatus he placed in there, I wouldn't be walking anywhere far.  By Tuesday afternoon I got fed up with my immobility and rode my bike home using mostly my left leg and very slight assistance from my right.  I could only place my heel on the pedal but I was able to travel pain free, sort of.  Stopping was a bit challenging because my natural tendency is to put my right foot down first.  Not smart.  I rode to and from work the next day and had the plastic insert removed that afternoon.  Now the wound could officially start to heal and I would be able to wear a shoe again.  NOW WE'RE TALKIN'!  Yesterday I was able to walk around without anyone noticing a problem.  My arch is still tender where the nail went in but it's healing nicely now.


So for the last week I kinda felt like this guy



The nail was the same size.  My reaction wasn't quite the same as Marv's, but it sure didn't tickle.  Today I'm finally able to wear a sock and shoe again, which means I can cover up the colossal funk that spawned from my foot being bandaged up for 7 days.   I can even ride my bike with my feet properly positioned on the pedals.  The doc says I should be completely pain free and ready to rumble within the next day or two.  WAHOO!  As much as I love having a 'get out of jail free' excuse for playing video games, I'm looking forward to playing outside again and getting back in the gym.  The guy I weaseled into climbing with me before all this happened will be away on vacation next week, but I've got him locked in for climbing the week after.  That gives me plenty of time to make up for the training I missed out on because of this:

After the hole was re-opened and slightly enlarged

Nailed Down

The two things I love to do the most are run and climb.  I've been hitting the trails more often to satisfy my burning desires to escape the cage that is my apartment.  I'm still lacking big time in the climbing department.  Being in Germany, you would expect me to have climbed in the Alps already.  Or at least on some mountain around here.  Neither is the case.  The tricky thing about climbing is finding a partner that you trust.  That trust doesn't come easy.  It generally requires multiple climbing sessions together and a thorough knowledge of the sport and its many risks.  Since departing the U.S. I have been severed (almost) from my trusty adventure partner and have yet to find a substitute.  Actually none of my friends are intrigued by the idea of climbing outside and so far only one has agreed to climb inside with me.  I jumped on the opportunity last week and weaseled him into going climbing tomorrow after work.  Friday afternoon, the plague returned.  In search of some wood for a freestanding hangboard I'm planning to build, I went dumpster diving in the bin at work.  I found a few pieces that I thought might serve a purpose in my design before a stealthy 1/8" nail found its way into the arch of my foot.

As signals of pain made their way to my brain I quickly raised my right leg and watched the 4" long nail reveal the other half inch that was previously residing in my foot.  Within 3 whole seconds after stepping on the nail I was out of the dumpster sitting on the ground with my shoe and sock torn off applying pressure to the hole in my foot.  Feeling embarrassed about not seeing the nail, I wanted to get somewhere that I could clean the wound and bandage it up before finding someone to take me to the hospital.  That plan only last about 90 seconds before I lost my calm and the lights went out after walking 50 yards.  I didn't even make it out of the parking lot.  Someone making a delivery lifted me off the ground and dragged me inside the security guard booth where I was given a glass of water.  I quickly came to and had to answer a bombardment of questions, in German.  I explained who I was, what I was doing and what had happened, also in German.  How's that for "Aware and Oriented x 5?"  I had to repeat the entire rundown again plus answer a few more questions when the paramedics arrived to wheel me away to the "Krankenhaus."

About an hour later they were about to discharge me before I started firing off a few questions of my own.  Not able to remember when I had my last tetanus shot, I wasn't too keen on walking out of their without one. I found it interesting that no one had confirmed whether I had had a tetanus shot recently.  I remember the paramedics saying something about it and I thought they meant that they were going to give me one once I got to the hospital.  False.  Now I realize that they were asking me if I had one and I mistakenly said yes.  So much for that German course.  Anyway, I asked the nurse if she was going to give me the shot.  When I explained that I had no idea when I had my last tetanus shot she consulted the doctor who informed her that it had to be within the last 5 years.  Definitely did not have a tetanus shot in the last 5 years.  She agreed it was best to give me the shot and let me on my way, after which I called a friend to come pick me up.

I spent the rest of the weekend with my feet up, surfing the internet and playing video games.  Monday came around and as instructed I went to see my doctor.  Yes I have a doctor here in Germany.  Mr. Agha  and his staff of nurses know me by first name.  He had to re-open the wound to let it bleed out to prevent infection.  With one nurse restraining each of my legs and one nurse on standby, Mr. Agha cut into my foot and recovered two hefty pieces of rubber originating from my shoe.  Thanks to the nurses at the hospital that did such a great job cleaning it out!  Before wrapping my foot in a whole roll of gauze the doc put some plastic apparatus in there to keep the wound open for the next two days.  "Wonderful."  I go back tomorrow to have it removed so the wound can finally start to heal properly.  Needless to say I won't be climbing tomorrow.